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Thursday, September 19, 2013

Bra Cup Styles


Bra Cup Styles




Balconette Cups - Balconette cups are a little smaller than demi cups. A true balconette cup will be cut horizontally just above the bust line and give ones breasts the look of fullness and uplift. They will also have vertical seams just under the bust to give added boost. Many manufacturers call bras balconette bras when in fact they are not. A balconette cup usually has a little padding to enhance bust size as well. The name balconette comes from men in the balcony of a theater looking down upon women -- a balconette bra could not be seen from above.





Balcony Cups - Balcony style cups give a sweetheart shape to the neckline. The center panel is usually lower to achieve this look, and a balcony cup has less coverage than a full coverage cup. 




Contour Cups - Contour cups hold their shape, even when not worn. These cups have an underwire and are lined with a thin layer of foam or fiberfill lining that is molded into a specific shape. Contour cups are a perfect choice for any woman seeking a sculpted silhouette, as they offer a specific round and symmetrical breast shape. A contour cup can also add definition (not size) to the breast, a smooth shape, and elimination of nipple contours. Today’s contour cups come 2 ways: cups which hold their shape and thus should not be crushed or fear of creases, and malleable contour cups that can be crushed without worry of creases. Contour cups are a good choice for in-between bra sizes, or a woman with uneven breasts.





Demi Cups - A demi cup means the cup has less upper breast coverage. The industry generally cuts a demi cup to 1" above the nipple point. Most push-up bras are demi cups to show more cleavage. The underwires of a demi cup are much shorter than other bras, so a demi cup can be a good choice for a woman who has issues with her underwires poking under her arms. Also, most demi cups are designed with a slight inward tilt to push the breasts towards the center for more cleavage. The demi cup design is great for a petite woman because the bra proportion is smaller and better accommodates their small frame.





Full Cups - Full cups cover most if not all of the breast, offering both more coverage and support. A full cup bra will not cause a visible line or indentation along the top of the breasts, so is a great design choice under form-fitting clothing. Full cups also tend to have center pull straps. This reduces strap slippage. A woman with shallow and deflated upper breasts will find that full cups give her a fuller upper breast silhouette. Full cups are very common in sports





Lined Cups - Lined cups give additional support and added opaqueness to the cup. Lining in the cups can also help reduce nipple projection. In some cases the lining is cut smaller than the outer cup. This helps give added support.




 
Minimizer Cups - A minimizer cup gives the appearance of reducing the projection of your breasts. This allows women to wear front-button shirts and blouses without gapping. A minimizer cup distributes the breast flesh more towards the underarm and the center front. A minimizer only shifts breast mass in areas other than directly in front. No minimizer cup can actually reduce your volume of breast tissue.




Nursing Cups - Nursing cups are specially designed to open. This allows access for baby to nurse without mom having to take off her bra. Nursing cups come in a variety of configurations.




 
Padded Cups - A padded cup bra has fiber-fill in the cups. This padding adds size and definition to give a well-proportioned look to smaller bust lines.




 
Petite Cups - A bra designed for a woman with a short and/or petite build. The cups will be paired down and sewn closer together. Many pre-teen bras are made with petite cups.



 
Push-Up Cups - Push-up cups enhance a woman's bust line by creating cleavage and the look of fuller breasts. Designed primarily for C cups and smaller, push-up cups are shaped like a demi cup with significant padding at the bottom of the cups. The cups are angled inward so that the breast tissue falls towards the center, thus creating cleavage. An elliptical shaped pad at the bottom of the cup - called the bump pad - is sometimes removable. Placed on the bottom outside area of the cup, this pad causes your breast tissue to be pushed up and inward. Most push-up bras also have wide-set straps. Setting the straps toward the outside edge of the cups will further assist in directing the breast tissue towards the center to create more cleavage. A recent design change in push-up cups is a new pad in the shape of a wide "L". This L-shaped pad rests both at the bottom and along the outside just inside the cup. Designers feel this pad design gives more extreme push-up and cleavage.


 
Seamed Cups - cups (also called cut & sew cups, and multi-part cups) are made with 2 or more fabric pieces. Before molded cups, seamed cups were the only bra cup option. Seaming on a cup allows more variations in cup shapes. Vertical and diagonal cup seams add to the cups support and tend to be more flattering to one's breasts. Seamed cups (especially 3-part and 4-part cups) will always be more supportive than a molded cup. A bra cup with seams can be made out of many more fabrics such as lace, satin, silk, etc. Bras with beautiful details are almost always made with seamed cups. And, if you need subtle altering for a better fit, seamed cups are the way to go. The drawback to seamed cups is that they may be visible under t-shirts and form-fitting fashions. For this reason, women should have both styles of cups in their lingerie wardrobe.

There are several seamed cup variations:

 
Horizontal seams - This seam design tends to give a more projected and slightly conical shape to the cup. 

 
Vertical center seams - More commonly found in demi or balconette cup shapes, this vertical center seam is very supportive and gives an uplifting effect to the breasts. 

 
Transversal seams - This seam type is arched or curved in shape, and thus gives a more rounded shape to the breast tissue while also being very supportive. 


 
Diagonal Seams - provide support, centering and lift to the breasts. And the diagonal design (generally starting low in the center and getting higher at the sides) also gives a very flattering appearance to the wearer.





 
Soft Cups - This is the name given to wire-free or wireless cups. Soft cup bras can have seams and padding as well – just no underwires.







HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Nipple / Apex of A Woman

Apex (Nipple) Direction


The apex (nipple) of your breasts can basically point in 3 directions: forward, downward and outward. All three directions are a very common occurrence. Downward pointing apex is usually a sign that the breasts are pendulous. Outward pointing apex can be an indication that your breasts are also splayed and/or you have a distended high tummy. However, you can also have outward pointing apex without any of these other attributes.



Forward Pointing Apex

This archetypical breast shape is just that – the standard. The breasts are full and round coming to a small point at the nipple. This is the shape most sought-after, and the shape most bra manufacturers use when designing new bra designs. Most women with breast implants have this breast shape.

Bra Suggestions:
  • All bra styles on the market fit this breast shape.



Outward Pointing Apex

This apex direction can be easily turned into forward pointing apexes with the correct bra style.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Bras with side support slings can easily push the breast to the front and center.
  • Bras with a narrow center panel can create a forward apex effect.
  • Bra cups made with rigid rather than stretch fabrics will give you your best shape.
  • Look for bras designed with closer apex points. This is simple to see if there are seams in the bra cups. Without seams, you can place a bra’s cups up on a table and look to see where the manufacturer has created the apex point. But, figuring their location out without actually putting on the bra can be a challenge.
  • Avoid soft cup bras with no structure (Pull-over, seamless, no formal cup), molded stretchy bra cups where the apex points are not specifically designed forward pointing, and bandeau and shelf bra styles. All of these bra styles will allow your breasts to wonder east/west.



Downward Pointing Apex

When your breast apex are pointing downward, this is a clear sign that your breasts are also pendulous along with upper breast tissue that is shallow or deflated.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Bras where the cups are made from many pieces (cut & sew, 3-part bra cups, etc.) and thus have seams. These will give the best support and create a round shape out of your breasts.
  • Full coverage bra cup designs. They will help give you a fuller look in the upper breast.
  • Contour cup bra (cups with a thin layer of foam in the cups) will give you a full rounded look.
  • Avoid pull-over bras and bras with little structure to them. They will not give you shape
  • Bras where the cups are a stretchy fabric should be avoided - your breasts will not have a nice shape in any of these types.
  • Shelf bras and bandeau style bras have little support and will thus not give your breasts a nice shape.
  • Bras with a plunging center lack central support so could create fit and support issues for you. If you need one for a special occasion, look for a plunge bra with seamed cups.




HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Breast Shape


HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Breast Shape


The actual shape of your breasts can have an enormous impact on how a bra will fit and look on you. Basically, there are six (6) breast shapes. Some are very common, and others are more unusual. When making a bra selection, it is very important that you know your breast shape and take it into consideration.



Archetype Breast Shape

This archetypical breast shape is just that – the standard. The breasts are full and round coming to a small point at the nipple. This is the shape most sought-after, and the shape most bra manufacturers use when designing new bra designs. Most women with breast implants have this breast shape.

Bra Suggestions:

  • All bra styles on the market fit this breast shape.



Uneven Breast Shape

Uneven breasts mean your two breasts are not of equal size. This is very common if the size difference is one cup size or less. It is more unusual if the size difference between your two breasts is greater than a cup size. In this case, the cause could be attributed to a body injury or illness during breast development. Uneven breasts can also occur during menopause when hormones can cause your breasts to expand unevenly. IF you are an athlete and use one arm more than the other, this too can cause uneven breast sizes.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Most bra styles can be retrofitted with pads called “cookies” or “breast enhancers” which add volume to the smaller breast thus giving you an even appearance.
  • Figure out where your fullness is missing in your breast and put the cookie in the correct place in your bra cup – along the bottom, along the side, or on the top of your breast.
  • Push-up bras with removable cookies can be a great solution. The cookie can be removed from the larger side, and kept in the cup on the smaller side – instant evenness.
  • Contour cup bras (seamless cups with a thin foam layer for shaping) are particularly good for giving an even look without the need for additional padding if your size difference is less than a full cup size.
  • For DD cup sizes and larger, bras where the upper edge of the cup is elasticized or where the upper fabric is stretchy will form to each breast for a more perfect fit.
  • Plunge bras could be problematic because they could show off your unevenness.



Conical Breast Shape

The base of the breast is typical, but the breast shape is more cone-like than round with the conical breast shape. This conical shape can have issues with filling out the front of the cup. A cup will look like it’s too big, while the underwires fit the breast base just fine. Conical breasts are a little unusual, and tend to exist in the smaller cup sizes (c cup size or less).

Bra Suggestions:

  • Contour cups bras (bras with a thin layer of foam in the cups) and a wide center panel will create a nice shape and fit well.
  • Small pads called “cookies” can be inserted into you bra’s cups along the bottom to help give you more breast volume and fill out your bra cups.
  • Push-up bras that both push up from the bottom and in from the sides will give you your fullest look and possible cleavage. A & B cup sizes will look best in heavily padded push-up bras. Make sure you adjust your breast tissue to make sure it is resting on top of the padding for optimal cleavage effect.
  • Minimizer bras (if you are C cup or larger) will give you a great rounded fit because their design goal is to round your breast projection.
  • Bandeau bras are an option because they can compress a conical breast shape and make them look more round. But, they also can make you look small-chested. Bandeau bras with underwires and lightly padded cups will look best.
  • Compression sports bras help to give your breasts a more rounded shape.
  • Avoid unstructured bras and bralettes – their lack of shaping tends to give you a less attractive silhouette.



Thin Breast Shape

Thin breasts are where the base of the breasts have a smaller circumference than standard breasts. Also called tuberous breasts, this smaller breast circumference causes the breast shape to appear slim and long. Thus, thin breasts tend not to fill a bra’s cups completely. Standard underwires have a built-in diameter that is too wide for this breast shape. Therefore, standard industry bras will have a tendency to rest far below your breast crease line. This in turn is uncomfortable. Thin breasts are rather unusual and are usually a C cup size or smaller. In the second row above, the tan lines tell this story – the underwire is resting well below the crease line. Most women with thin breasts will also have wide-set breasts as well. So, touching breast cleavage is not possible.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Traditional underwire bras are not recommended - they are not likely to fit properly and the underwire ends in the middle of your chest can poke your sternum.
  • Soft cup bras (bras without underwires) will be comfortable but not give you great shape.
  • Push-up bras can do a great job in giving you a fuller look.
  • Push-up bras with padding both along the bottom and far side of the cup are particularly flattering.
  • Placing cookies (removable pads) along the bottom of your bra cups will help fill out your cups and give you a fuller breast shape.
  • Contour bras made with rather firm foam can give a more rounded shape and hide the inability of your breasts to completely fill the cups.
  • Plunge bras can work because the wires will come in low at the center along the sternum and thus be more comfortable.
  • Bandeau bras and compression sports bras can give a flatter rounder breast shape to thin breasts. However, though you are getting a rounder look, your breasts will also appear smaller under the compression.



Omega Breast Shape

The Omega breast shape (named after an upside-down omega symbol) occurs with mostly large cup-sized breasts (D cup or larger). Also known as “ball-shaped breasts” it is a shape that occurs over time due to improper bra wearing. Basically, the base of the breast (where your breast meets your chest wall) is one circumference size, but further down your breasts your circumference becomes larger – for lack of a better analogy, its liken to a tennis ball in the bottom of a sock. No woman starts out with this breast shape, and it is not a common breast shape. Also, omega-shaped breasts can be overly large for the body’s frame and thus both touch in the center and extend beyond the sides of the body.

So, with this omega breast shape defined, here is the issue; the bra cup size that will contain all your breast tissue will also have a wider underwire circumference than your crease line. Think of it like putting a teacup (bra cup) over a tennis ball (omega-shaped breast). The teacup is filled up by the top half of the tennis ball, but there is excess space inside the teacup around the circumference where the cup meets the saucer. This is the same problem with an omega-shaped breast inside a bra cup - the underwire circumference (edge of the teacup) of the bra cup size big enough to contain an Omega breast will be too large (even though your breast mass fits) for the under-breast crease of this breast shape. This too large underwire therefore does not rest in the under-bust crease, but instead slides down the chest wall to a lower position under the breasts creating pain and discomfort. And worse, these too-large/wide underwires extend out from the underarms and “catch” the wearer’s arms as she moves them.

There are many causes for large breasts to turn into this Omega shape - Years of not wearing quality/supportive bras, too often going braless, a history of gaining/losing/gaining weight over many years, and/or years of wearing the wrong size bra.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Cut & Sew bras where the cups are made with 3 to 4 pieces (especially side-support slings) will give the best support and shape. You will get cleavage and possibly mounding with this type of bra.
  • Look for bras where the cup fabric is rigid and non-stretchy.
  • Bras with side panels to place the breasts more front and center. This gets the breast tissue out from under the arms for better arm movement.
  • Full Coverage bras will be your best friend because the cup will come up high to help support your breast weight.
  • Plunge bras are an option.
  • Soft-cup bras (bras without underwires) will be comfortable, but will not optimize your shape.
  • Avoid most molded and contour cup bras unless they are made by a brand that specializes in full figure lingerie. They will not give adequate support, nor fit properly.
  • Traditional shelf-style bras, bandeau, leisure bras, and other unstructured bra styles simply do not give enough support and will exacerbate your breast shape further.



Reduced Projection Breast Shape

Breasts with reduced projection have a traditional breast base circumference, but the breasts themselves do not have adequate breast tissue to fully fill out a bra’s cups. For example, the breast base fits perfectly in a C cup underwire bra, but does not fill out the cup; the cup looks pucker and wrinkled. Going to a smaller cup size means the underwire will not be wide enough, will rest on breast tissue, and will thus feel uncomfortable as well as be ill-fitting.

Reduced projection can also be the result of breast reduction surgery. The surgeon reduced the breast mass, but did not also reduce the base size and under-bust crease of the breasts. So, the original breast crease is there, but not enough breast tissue remains to fill the bra’s cups. Reduced projection breasts are rather unusual.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Purchase the correct underwire bra size that fits your breast crease. Then supplement your breast tissue with breast enhancers to fill out the empty space inside your bra cups.
  • Bras where the cups are made with stretchy (not rigid) fabric will form to your reduced projection shape for a nice fit.
  • Bras where the top edges of the cups have elastic will give a better shape to your reduced projection.
  • Minimizer bras can be a terrific solution. Their cup design has reduced projection worked into them.
  • Soft cup (wire-free) bras are also a solution, but a flattering breast profile could be jeopardized.

Breast Position


HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Breast Position


Breasts are held in place on your chest by ligaments called “Cooper Ligaments.” There are no muscles that can be exercised to move your breasts back up once they begin to fall. It is the stretching over time of these ligaments that causes the southerly movement of your breasts. And, the only way to stall this movement is to have your breasts fully supported, and their movement diminished throughout the day. You should also wear sports bras with the appropriate impact level while exercising.

All four breast positions identified below are very common. And, you can experience all four of these breast positions throughout your life.



Self-supporting Breasts

When looking at the breast in profile, the bottom of the breast is perpendicular to the chest wall. A bra is not needed to give a full look to these breasts, but should be worn anyway to maintain their position and shape. Self-supporting breasts are very common in post-pubescent girls and women with breast implants.

Wearing supportive bras on a daily consistent basis can keep your breasts self-supporting for a life-time. Going braless, wearing ill-fitting bras, and not wearing appropriate impact-level sports bras will cause you to lose your self-supporting position.

Bra Suggestions:

  • All bra styles on the market can be a success for you if you have self-supporting breasts.



Semi-supported Breasts

In profile, semi-supported breasts are beginning to drop. You have a clear breast crease line along the bottom of your breasts where they meet up with the chest wall. A bra may not be needed, but in order to maintain your breast placement and shape, a bra with good support should be worn throughout the day, and during athletic activities.

Wearing supportive bras on a daily and consistent basis can keep your breast semi-supported for a life-time. Going braless, wearing ill-fitting bras, and not wearing appropriate impact-level sports bras will result in your breasts moving further south.

Bra Suggestions:

  • All bra styles can be successful with semi-supported full breasts.
  • To achieve upper breast mounding, a push-up bra will probably be needed.





Settled Breasts

Settled breasts in profile have dropped so that the nipple is above the breast crease line, but your lower breast mass is below the breast crease line on the chest. Settling can occur after pregnancy, breast-feeding, weight loss, aging, improper bra wearing, or any combined. Bra Suggestions:
  • Seamed cup underwire bras (cups with seams – also called “cut & sew” bras) which are also be called 3-part, 4-part cup bras are the best solution for settled breasts.
  • Seamed cup underwire bras where there is a vertical center seam in the bottom half of the cup will give you the most lift.
  • Contour cup bras (bras which have a thin layer of foam inside the cup) will work, but their shape can break down with larger and heavier breast, and thus not be as flattering as a seamed cup bra.
  • Soft-cup bras (bras without underwires) will work, but may not give you enough uplift. If you are larger than a D cup, a soft-cup bra should have seams in the cups for support.
  • Push-up bras or using pads in the cups will help to give you upper breast fullness, and will raise your breasts up as well to make you look more youthful and slender. But, this style should only be worn by women with a 38DD bra size or smaller.
  • Demi, balconette and plunge bras where there are seams in the cup design can work for you, but your upper breast tissue could look a little jingly.



Pendulous Breasts

Pendulous breasts are when the nipple and the lower breast mass are below the breast crease line on the chest. This breast position is common after child-birth, breast feeding one or many children, extreme weight loss, a severe illness, improper bra usage, and, in general, as we age. Proper life-time breast support can significantly reduce and even prevent pendulous breasts from forming.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Look for bras with rigid, non-stretchy cup fabric.
  • Underwires along with cut & sew (seamed) cups that are full coverage will give the best shape and support.
  • Cut & Sew bras where there is a vertical center seam in the bottom half of the cup will give you the most lift.
  • Larger cup sizes – DD and larger – will get better support if the sides are also boned.
  • Avoid bras with wide-set straps. Center pull straps work best.
  • A plunge bra can work if your upper breasts are also full. If you have deflated upper breast tissue, look for plunge bras with seams in the cups.
  • Cami bras are a comfortable solution, but your silhouette will not be lifted, full or round.
  • Most contour and seamless bras will not have enough support to pull you up and keep your pendulous breasts in place. However some full-figure bra manufacturers have created some very supportive contour bras.
  • Soft cup bras (bras without underwires) will be very comfortable, but an uplifting, rounded shape will be compromised.
  • Lightweight, unstructured, pullover, bandeau or triangle style bras are not recommended because they are all missing the structure you need.

Upper Breast Fullness


HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Upper Breast Fullness



The volume of breast tissue in the upper half of your breasts is what determines how much fullness you will have at your neckline. This fullness is called "mounding." When you see a woman in a corset with her breasts pushed up and almost spilling over, this is full mounding. Generally, we all start off with full upper breast tissue, but age, genetics, babies, illness, going braless, weight fluctuations and more can impact your upper breast fullness. This lost fullness/lack of fullness impacts how your bra will fit.


Full Upper Breast
Full upper brasts are round and full above the apex of the breast. Full breasts are particularly common among post-pubescent girls. Breasts with implants are generally full as well.

Bra Suggestions:

  • All bra styles on the market fit a woman with full upper breasts.



Semi-full Upper Breast

The upper breast has less fullness, but there is still some fullness. Generally, as a woman ages, she goes from full to semi-full upper breasts. Semi-full breasts will not have quite as much breast fullness when wearing a strapless bra as a woman with full upper breasts.

Bra Suggestions:

  • All bra styles on the market fit a woman with full upper breasts.



Shallow Upper Breasts

The upper breast in profile shows signs of being less full. Some use the analogy of your breast profile looking like a down-hill ski jump. Many women’s breasts naturally develop into this shape from the beginning. Breasts can also become shallow over time. And, having a baby, weight loss, and/or illness etc. can contribute to your upper breasts becoming shallow.

Bra Suggestions:

  • Cut & Sew bras (seams in the cups) will give your best shape and support. Seams take your malleable breast tissue and turns it into a round full shape. IF you don’t mind seams in your cups, this is your best solution.
  • Bras with full coverage cups will cover the shallowness, and thus give a fuller look. However, some full coverage styles can also wrinkle in the upper cup area. And, your inability to fill out some full coverage cups could contribute to your straps slipping off your shoulders.
  • Bras where there is elasticity along the upper edge of the cups can be a good choice because they will form to your breast shape and reduce cup wrinkling.
  • Contour cup bras (molded cups with a thin layer of foam for shaping) are also a great choice and will give you a fuller look because the cup has been pre-shaped.
  • A push-up bra with a thick push-up pad in the bottom of the cup should create a mounding effect and give you upper breast fullness.
  • Bras with cups made out of stretch fabric will mold and fit to your breast shape.
  • Balconnette and demi bras are not optimal because your reduced upper breast fullness will not create a full look in these bra styles.



Deflated Upper Breasts

Deflated fullness means the upper breast tissue is almost or completely gone. This deflation contributes to breasts sagging and becoming pendulous - a very common occurrence in older women. Deflation can also result from tremendous weight loss, and/or a severe illness.

Bra Suggestions:

  • First, it’s very important that you lean forward and place your breasts in the bra cups before fastening your bra. This will go a long way towards giving your breasts their optimal full look.
  • Cut & Sew bras where there are seams in the cups will give you great support, coverage and shape. This style of bra is your best bet in all cup sizes.
  • Contour cup bras (molded bras with a thin layer of foam for modesty and shape) are a good choice for giving you a rounded and full look. But make sure not to pick full coverage contour bra because there could be gaps. And if you are larger than a DD cup size, contour bras are not as supportive.
  • A soft-cup bra (bra without underwires) that has structure and seams in its cups will feel very comfortable to you. But pull-over, unstructured soft-cup bras will give you a saggy look
  • A push-up bra is a possibility, but you should not expect mounding or cleavage. And this style is not recommended if you are larger than a D cup size.
  • Full coverage cups will also give you a fuller look by covering the shallowness of your upper breasts. Cut & Sew bras where there are seams in the cups will give you great support, coverage and shape.
  • Bras with triangle shaped cups tend to mask your shallowness.
  • Demi bras, plunge bras and balconette bras should be avoided because you won’t have enough upper breast tissue to fill out the cups, what upper tissue you have will look jiggly. 

Breast Classification - Which One Are You?


HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store

Breast Separation

Breast separation between women’s breasts really does vary widely. This is the horizontal distance between your two breasts at the center of your chest. Depending on how much or how little distance you have between your two breasts can determine whether or not you will achieve touching cleavage (that vertical fold line created when breasts touch), how a bra will fit you, and if and underwire bra will be comfortable.

You have one of the following 5 types of breast separation, and all 5 types are a common occurrence.



Touching Breasts




touching breasts
Touching breast separation (also known as “kissing breasts”) is where your two breasts are touching or almost touching when you are standing sans a bra. If your breast are such, you have probably figured out that a bra’s center panel (also called the center gore and center bridge) will have fit issues and probably not rest against your sternum. And the underwires of a traditional underwire bra will probably tilt outward and away from your body at your sternum because again, there is no space available for them to rest against your sternum. There is also a rare condition called “Symmastia” where the breast tissue between the two breasts is connected

Bra Suggestions:
  • Be very aware of the center design of your bra – the optimal center panel for you will be low cut or almost nothing.
  • Underwire bras where the underwires barely come up and into your center chest/sternum area – if at all – will fit you best.
  • IF you are larger than a DD cup size, bras with seams in the cups will give you your best shaping and support.
  • Look for plunge bras if you want to show off your kissing cleavage. These bra styles tend to have very low center panels – if any.
  • Bras without wires (called "soft cup" bras) will be a comfortable choice, but the center panel will probably not rest on your sternum. Soft cup bras larger than a D cup also have a tendency to compromise your shape and support.
  • A halter style bra can be a good choice because the design tends to push breasts together towards the center anyway.
  • Avoid bras with a significant center panel between the cups. This panel will not rest against your sternum.



Separated Breasts


Separated Breasts

Separated breasts are the most common form of breast separation. This is where the two breasts, at rest, are not touching one another – generally the breast distance will be 1 to 2 finger’s widths apart.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Every style of bra will work with this basic breast separation. In the lingerie industry, this is considered the typical breast separation and thus most bras are designed to fit this separation type.
  • B cup sizes and larger with this type of breast separation can achieve a vertical cleavage line.



Splayed Breasts

Splayed breast separation is where the breasts are separated, but the separation splays outwards creating a triangle shape between the breasts. So your bra’s center panel (also called center bridge or center gore) needs to be chosen carefully. If the bridge is not shaped like a triangle, the bottom of the bridge will not be wide enough, and this could cause your underwires between your breasts to tip outward and away from your sternum. Women who are splayed and have large breasts can find their breasts extending past their sides and getting in the way of arm movement.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Bras with a wide-based triangle shape center panel will fit you best.
  • Balconette and demi bras have shorter wires and therefore can be a comfortable bra style solution, but look for ones with seamed cups.
  • Bras where the center is made with cording, or has center underwires that barely come up between the breasts, like a plunge bra, can work for you.
  • Splayed breasts DD cup size and larger should consider bras with tall side seams (3” or taller) and cups with side support panels or side slings along the outer sides of the cups to help get your breasts more front and center.
  • If you are experiencing rubbing or chafing by your bra on the outside edge of your breasts near the underarm, it’s probably because all your breast tissue is not getting inside your bra cups. This can be corrected by leaning forward, and moving your breast tissue fully into the cups with your hands. If this tissue doesn’t all fit in your cups, this is a sign that you need a larger cup size.



Wide-set Breasts

Wide-set breasts are separated breasts but are further apart - generally 3 or more finger’s widths apart at the sternum. Because of this distance, the ability to create touching cleavage is almost impossible. Underwires can be uncomfortable if you are widely separated, and can cause discomfort in the underarm area if the underwires are not encircling all your breast tissue. Leaning forward and pushing the under arm breast tissue inside the cups can help. Manipulating the underwire circumference shape and angle can make an underwire bra feel more comfortable.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Look at a bra’s center panel and select those bras where this center panel is wider than others.
  • Push-up bras that push up from the bottom and in from the sides will be the ones to give you better cleavage.
  • Bras without underwires (called ‘soft cup’ bras) will be comfortable if you have constant issues with your underwires poking.
  • Bras with a triangle-shaped cup will fit, as will plunge bras.
  • Bras with side panels built in the cups will give women who are D cup size and larger more forward projection, plus relocate the under-arm breast tissue more towards the center thus giving easier arm movement.
  • Front closure bras, because of their center clasp, tend to have wider-set cups. So, they can be a good choice up to DD cup sizing.



Wide-set/Splayed Breasts

Wide-set/splayed breasts are a combination where your breasts are both wide-set and splayed – there are 3 or more finger-widths between your breasts, and the breasts splay outwards creating a wide triangle-shape between the breasts. The center panel of you bra is again, key. It needs to be triangle in shape, or barely have a center panel at all. If your breasts are large, you can find them in conflict with the movement of your arms. Underwires could be uncomfortable under your arms as well. It is very unlikely that wide-set/splayed breasts of any size will be able to create a vertical cleavage line.

Bra Suggestions:
  • Bras with a wide triangle-shaped center panel will work best.
  • Bras with side support panels in their cup design will help push your breasts out from under your arms and in from the sides to give you a better forward shape.
  • Front closure bras are a good choice because the center clasp tends to cause wider set cups. This bra style is a good choice up to DD cup sizes.
  • Bras with seams in the cups (and a wider center panel) will give you a more rounded and youthful breast shape.
  • Soft cup bras (bras without underwires) will be a more forgiving fit, but you will not get great shape and definition.
  • Center panels made of cording and plunge bras will probably fit you better. But, look for the widest center panel you can find.
  • Push-up bras that both push you up from the bottom and in from the sides will be your best choice for creating any possible kissing cleavage

Basically by knowing your breasts, you will know what kind of bra suits you perfectly.

Bra and Breasts - Learn About The Anatomy


HerRoom is an online lingerie and men's underwear retailer based in Dallas, Texas. It was founded and is owned by Tomima Edmark, inventor of the Topsy Tail. HerRoom.com is the online destination for all things lingerie, offering dozens of name brands including Hanky Panky, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Spanx, Wonderbra and many more.  HerRoom.com also offers a wealth of information on sizes, fabrics, styles and fitting to ensure that our customers look and feel their best. A unique site feature include Tomima’s Tips. HerRoom.com founder Tomima Edmark offers her special brand of expertise on how to find and wear the right lingerie styles for every situation and body type. Information sources and image credits goes to the only women operated, number 1 online lingerie store


The Anatomy of a Bra

How it is made for your figure?

Knowing how a bra is cut and sewn can have a big impact on how it fits your unique shape. In this section we'll dissect each part and explain their function and how it affects your bra fit.

The Parts of A Bra


  1. Cups
  2. Multi-Part Cups
  3. Underwires
  4. Bra Band
  1. Center Panel (Bridge)
  2. Bra Sides/Back (Bra Wings)
  3. Bra Hooks
  4. Bra Straps

1. Cups

   There are 2 important points you should know about bra cups and their sizing:

1 - The same cup size letter on different band sizes does not mean the same cup size.

2 - If you are a DD cup size or larger, your cup size could be called many things.


1) A cup size letter, such as a C cup is not equal in volume across all band sizes. Here is an example. Say you are a 36C. If you move to a 38C, your band size goes up and so does your cup size by one cup size. If you move down to a 34C your band size goes down and so does your cup size by one cup size. If you want a larger band size but want to keep your same cup size, you should move to a 38B. If you want a smaller band size but want to keep your same cup size, you should move to a 34D.

I know, It’s a crazy fact, but true. So, why does the industry assign the same cup letter to different band sizes, when the cup size is not equal?

The cup size letter is actually a measurement of how far your breasts project from your chest wall. Each letter denotes a 1" increase in your body’s circumference around your bustline. These illustrations below explain this best. When you take your bust circumference measurement and subtract your underbust circumference measurement, the remaining inches represent your cup size. A C-Cup, for example is 3" difference between these 2 measurements. But a 3" difference is a big deal with small band sized women, but not such a big deal with larger bandsize women. So, this is why a C cup shape and depth changes with each band size.

2) Women with cup sizes larger than a D cup have an added challenge because many bra manufacturers have chosen to create their own letter naming conventions. For example, a DDD cup size is called an E cup size in some brands, and an F cup size in yet other brands. So, if you don’t know how a certain brand names their cups, you can wind up with the wrong cup size and think the bra is running too small or too large in the cups.

My suggestion is to figure out how many cup sizes larger you are than a D cup. Say you are a G cup size in Chantelle. This means you are 3 sizes larger than a D cup. Now, you can look at any bra, see how they name their cup sizes, and count up 3 cup sizes from their D to find your size.

Bra Cup Styles
There are a variety of bra cup styles. Here is a list along with a description.

  • Contour Cups - Contour cups are lined with a thin layer of foam for modesty. They are usually seamless, but can also have seams.
  • Cut & Sew Cups - This is another term for cups with seams. They are many times also called 3-part cups and 4-part cups. Cut & sew cups are the most supportive cups. The more seams, the more supportive a cut & sew cup becomes.
  • Demi Cups - A demi cup provides less upper breast coverage. Also called a half cup, this cup style is designed to expose to upper half of your breast, and usually comes with wide-set bra straps.
  • Full Cups - These cups are designed to cover all or most of each breast.
  • Minimizer Cups - Minimizer cups reduce the projection of your breasts, so these cups are more shallow and wider than average bra cups.
  • Molded Cups - Any bra cup that has built-in breast shape formed from a molding machine. Molded cups are usually seamless and unlined.
  • Multi-Part Cups - This is another name for cut & sew cups. A multi-part cup means there are several fabric pieces used to create each cup. Most lace cups are multi-part. And, multi-part cups are always the most supportive bra cups.
    • 2-Part Cup Bras
    • 3-Part Cup Bras
    • 4-Part Cup Bras
    • 5-Part Cup Bras
  • Padded Cups - A bra cup with padding included.
  • Petite Cups - A bra designed for a woman with a short and/or petite build. The cups will be paired down and sewn closer together. Many pre-teen bras are made with petite cups.
  • Push-up Cups - The bottom of the cup has padding to push your breasts up to give them a fuller look.
  • Seamless Cups - A bra cup without any seams. This style of cup almost always has a breast shape pre-determined by a molding machine. A seamless cup can also be a contour cup where it is lined with a thin layer of foam for modesty. A seamless cup can be rigid or stretchy.
  • Soft Cups - This is another name for cups without underwires. Other names for this type of cup are wire-free cups and wireless cups.
  • Support Sling/Panel Cups - An internal piece of stiff support fabric sewn inside the cup or incorporated into the design of the cups. A support sling is kind of like a hammock sewn in along the bottom and sides of the cups to give additional support to the breasts. A support panel is generally a vertical panel placed along the arm edge of the bra cup. It helps push the breast tissue under ones arms forward for a more flattering and thinning look. There are also support panels that totally encircle the edges of your bra cups. These panels create clear breast definition and move your breast tissue in a forward position.



2. Multi-Part Cups



Multi-Part Cups - Also called "cut & sew cups" and "seamed cups" this is where there are seams in the cups. There are several seamed cup variations:
  • Horizontal seams - This seam design tends to give a more projected and slightly conical shape to the cup.
  • Vertical center seams - More commonly found in demi or balconette cup shapes, this vertical center seam is very supportive and gives an uplifting effect to the breasts.
  • Transversal seams - This seam type is arched or curved in shape, and thus gives a more rounded shape to the breast tissue while also being very supportive.
  • Diagonal Seams - provide support, centering and lift to the breasts. And the diagonal design (generally starting low in the center and getting higher at the sides) also gives a very flattering appearance to the wearer.

    Types of Multi-Part Cup Bras
    • 2-Part Cup Bras
    • 3-Part Cup Bras
    • 4-Part Cup Bras
    • 5-Part Cup Bras

More on Support Panels/Slings:




Women with C cup sizes and larger can benefit from a bra with support panels or slings. Especially if their breasts are pendulous, are large or fall to the sides. In these cases especially, panels can lift, center and support your breasts for a better shape and profile.

3. Underwires


A bra with underwires gives the best shape and definition to a bustline. So, it’s worth the effort to try and find an underwire bra that fits you properly. Understanding underwires and how they are sized can go a long way in helping you find the perfect underwire bra fit.

Breasts have a diameter measurement and a projection measurement - distance the breast tissue protrudes from your chest wall. When you select a cup size like a C or G, you are making a breast projection measurement selection. The breast diameter measurement is pre-determined by the manufacturer and built into each band size. So, changing your band size also changes your underwire diameter. Here is an example. Going from a 34C to a 36C takes you up one breast diameter measurement. Going from a 34C to a 36B keeps the same breast diameter measurement. This is why going up a band size means you also need to go down a cup size if you want to keep the same cup volume. Confused? You’re not alone.

Manufacturers use the exact same underwire size in multiple band sizes. For example, the actual underwire used in a 36B is the exact same underwire used in a 34C, 32D and 30E. All of these bras have the same breast diameter; just different breast projection measurements in relation to the band size - but all have the same cup volume. The chart below makes this a little more clearer. Find your size on the chart and note the color in the box. All the other sizes in the same diagonal color stripe use the exact same underwire size:


30A
30B
30C
30D
30E
30F
30G
30H
30I
32A
32B
32C
32D
32E
32F
32G
32H
32I
34A
34B
34C
34D
34E
34F
34G
34H
34I
36A
36B
36C
36D
36E
36F
36G
36H
36I
38A
38B
38C
38D
38E
38F
38G
38H
38I
40A
40B
40C
40D
40E
40F
40G
40H
40I
42A
42B
42C
42D
42E
42F
42G
42H
42I
44A
44B
44C
44D
44E
44F
44G
44H
44I


So, here’s how you can use this new-found knowledge. You find a bra that fits perfectly in the cups but the band is too tight. You look at this chart, find your size, follow the diagonal downward and there is your bra size with just a larger band size. The cup size went down one size as you went up a band size. But both cups use the same underwire so you know your cups will be the same. Conversely, want a smaller band size but with the same cup volume? Follow your diagonal upward to get the same cup size but with a smaller band size.

This chart also explains why an underwire swimsuit labeled as a "C" cup will not fit all C cup women; you really need to know what underwire size was selected to represent "C" cups. For you analytical types, the standard diameter deviation between underwire sizes is about 3/8". The standard underwire length deviation between sizes is about 5/8".

Underwire design is also important. An underwire is designed to have some spring. Usually made of heavy gauge wire, sheet metal or a plastic, underwires are designed to splay or spread wider once a bra is put on and fastened. It’s kind of like stretching a spring. Once the bra is removed from your body, the underwires return to their original shape. This horizontal pulling on the underwires gives you additional support and containment to your breasts - especially so for strapless bras.

Do you have a problem with your underwires breaking in their middle? If so, it’s because too much horizontal pulling is taking place with your underwires. Your breasts are in too small an underwire and their weight and pressure are causing eventual breakage. Or your band size is too small and the excessive pulling apart of the underwires causes their eventual breakage.

Are all underwires shaped the same? For the most part, yes. But there can be some differences. Many lingerie manufacturers claim their underwire grading and shaping to be their secret behind their unique fit. So, this could be a reason why you find one bra brand fitting your differently than another

There are many different underwire lengths as well. Demi cup low-plunge bras and petite bra styles have shorter wires due to their design. Thus these specific bra styles can be a great choice for a petite or short-waisted woman who has issues with underwires coming up too high in the center or under their arms. The longest underwires are used in strapless bras. Since a strapless bra does not have the benefit of straps for support, having more underwire surrounding and containing the breast helps give the needed support to keep a strapless bra up and in place.

4. Bra Band



Also known as a "bra frame" or "bra base," a bra band is that part of a bra that goes around a ribcage. It’s a term that also includes the bra’s sides and back. A bra’s band is designed and engineered to carry the weight and thrust of your breasts. A bra band is what determines how your band size will fit and feel. This is why its so important that you find your correct band size - too tight and your underwires can dig into your ribcage; too loose and your breasts won’t have proper support.

A bra’s cups are sewn either into or onto a bra band. Some bra designs have what is called a "bandless" or "floating cup" design meaning that the cups are not sewn onto a band underneath them. Instead the band is sewn onto the outer edges of each cup and has no presence in the front of the bra. This bra design gives a lighter look to the bra, but can compromise your support - especially if you have larger breasts.

A bra designed with a bra band that goes all the way around your torso will give you the best support. And, if that bra band is made of Powernet (a very sturdy knit fabric that is also used in extra firm compression garments) you have the strongest support possible without having so much stretch that the bra will shortly stretch out. There is an important point to be made here. Bras that can be easily stretched from end to end, have a much shorter life than those bras with little stretch. So, if you want a bra to last longer and stretch out less, look for a bra where the band is made with a powernet.

Some women can have a problem with their band flipping up or folding under their arms. This is a common problem in the larger band and cup sizes, and also with full-busted petite women. One reason could be that the brand size is too small. Another could be the manufacturers inexpensive and stretchy fabric choice for the band. Assuming you have your correct band size, one solution is to look for bras with bands made in powernet, and/or a band with boning sewn vertically along the sides.

5. Center Panel (Bridge)


It’s important to look at the height of the center panel in relation to the apex or horizontal nipple line of your bust line.
A well-supporting bra will have a center panel at or above the line - see the first image on the left.

Here are some additional facts about a center panel. The wider the center panel, the better the bra will fit a woman with wide-set and splayed breasts. Most front closure bras, because of the clasp, have sider set cups as well. Most minimizers do not have a center panel. Bras where the underwires are short in the center have a very thin - if any - center panel, and this style is great for a woman with close-set breasts.



No Center Panel

Wide Center Panel.

Plunge style bras have become very popular in the last few years. This style allows you to wear a low neckline without your bra showing. But, you need to be careful with these styles. The center panel many times is simply a small piece of tape, or there isn’t really a center panel at all. In these cases, the center support of the bra is compromised, and for larger cup-sized women with less firm breasts, bending forward could find your breasts falling out of these types of bra.



Corded Center
Panel

There are also bras with center panels that are actually cord. These can be a good choice for women with splayed breasts and uneven breasts because this kind of center panel can adjust for a custom fit.

For your technical types, the center panel on many bra styles actually decreases in width as the cup sizes increase. This makes sense when you remember that as breasts get larger, they also get closer together. The center panel width at the Apex line generally measures as follows: AA=1-1/2", A= 1-1/4", B=1", C= 3/4", D and larger =1/2". Also, the center panel also usually increases in height as the cup size increases.


6. Bra Sides/Back (Bra Wings)


The sides and back of your bra can play a major role in giving you support and can be instrumental in creating or preventing flesh bulges. When looking at an unhooked back closure bra, you can see that on each side of your cups a piece of fabric is sewn on that has at its end on side of the hook & eye back closure system. Many refer to these two pieces as bra wings. It makes sense when you know that many times a bra does not have a side seam, so this fabric piece incorporates the side and back of a bra.

Do you want to know if your bra is made with quality fabric that will last a long time? Do the stretch test. Simply stretch your wings. An inferior fabric that is somewhat flimsy and overly stretchy fatigues quickly. This fabric won’t be very supportive and will stretch out after just a few months of wear. Instead, you want the wings to have a resistant stretch. If a bra’s sides and back are made with powernet, this is the best fabric to be used. Powernet is also the fabric used in high-end compression garments. It has a resistant stretch that will give you great support and last for many wearings without becoming stretching out. An important note her is that you should have 3 bras that you rotate - one to wear, one to wear the next day, and one to wash. A bra should be allowed to rest at least 24 hours between wearing again so that the fabric has the opportunity to return to its original shape. This will greatly increase the life of your bras.


7. Back Hook Counts


For optimal wear, your bra’s back closure hooks should fit snug on the first (closest to the end) set of loops. As you bra gets warn and natural stretch takes place over time, you will then be able to tighten your bra by hooking on the other sets of loops. There are several opinions out there as to how many hooks should be on the back of a bra for optimal support. Young women tend to want fewer hooks because they don’t want their bra to look like a harness. Older women tend to want more hooks because they feel they get more support and less back bulges. The answer here is to leave it to the manufacturer and their designers. More hooks does not necessarily guarantee a more supportive fit.

Here is an example of a very supportive bra with a pared down back hook count. This bra is still supportive, but incorporating a leotard back design, the back looks lighter while still giving great support.

Back Coverage


How a bra back is designed has a lot to do with whether or not you will have bulges, or what is now being called back fat. As we get older, the tissue on our back becomes softer. Any pressure will create indentations or flesh bulges. The two examples above tell the story. The bra back on the left has more coverage and curving lines. This back design will mitigate back bulges. The design on the right has thin straps and a narrow back. This style will absolutely give you back bulges if you are prone to back fact. Both backs above are considered to be leotard back styles. So, it is incorrect to assume that as long as the back is designed with leotard styling that it will eliminate back fat.

There are several options now on the market to reduce or eliminate back bulge. The first is a simple purchase of a shapewear camisole. This garment can be put on over any of your existing bras to give you a smooth back. You can continue to wear your existing bras while eliminating that worrisome back fat. And another solution is to pay more attention to the back design of your bras. More and more companies are creating bras with greater back coverage and/or designs that tend to mask the bulging. Back bulge can now be considered a problem of the past.


8. Bra Straps


Bra straps come in a number of variations. They can be made up of all elastic, or have a rigid front half with an elastic back half. Bra straps cal also be wide, narrow, padded, removable, conjoined, and usually length adjustable. Whatever the style, bra straps are meant to act as stabilizers for the bra. At most, they should carry no more than 10% of the breast's weight. Whatever the style, bra straps should lie flat against your chest (unless you have implants) and not fall off your shoulders. Generally speaking, straps fall off shoulders for a couple of reasons:
  • The straps are too wide-set both in the front and back of the bra.
  • The straps have been sewn on at an angle.
  • Ring hardware attaching the straps to the back of the bra allow for too much swivel.
  • If you’re using bra back extenders, they are moving the straps too far apart.
  • You have shallow upper breasts which creates a hollow in the upper half of your cup thus causing your straps to fall off.

If strap slippage is a common problem for you, the trick is to find a bra where the straps are either sewn closer to the center in the front or the back. You've probably never really noticed how your straps attach to the back of your bra. Well, after reading this, I hope it becomes one of the first things you look at. How the shoulder straps are attached in back can tell you a lot about how the bra will fit. There are basically two types of strap attachments: camisole and leotard.


Camisole Back
Leotard Back


The camisole strap attachment style has the straps sewn onto the back at a right angle - creating a box-like shape with the bra back. This strap attachment style has been around the longest and is also used on traditional camisoles and slips. The camisole attachment style works for all bra sizes, and is particularly good for larger bra sizes because it allows the bra back to have as many hook closings as necessary; allows the straps to be made out of elastic or a rigid material; and can be easily altered. This style also allows for a new back strap adjusting feature known as "kicked in straps" where the back has a number of tabs long the back to allow for the straps to be attached either closer or farther away.

The leotard strap attachment is a fairly new design in bras. It has also been called the "U back." Rather than a rectangle shape like the camisole attachment, the leotard attachment gives a round look on the back - similar to the look of a leotard. It has fast become the most commonly found strap attachment technique in today's ready-to-wear offerings. And, recently some bra manufacturers have been claiming it as their own unique design when in fact, it’s been available for years now. Besides looking different, the leotard back style almost always includes elastic to achieve the rounded shape. This elastic gives the wearer flexibility to raise her arms or bend over without having to adjust her bra afterwards.

There are a few challenges to a leotard strap attachment. The straps attach to the back at a bit of an angle to keep the arch styling. If the "U" shape is too wide , the straps can fall off the wearer's shoulders. The number of back fasteners is also limited with this strap design. But, this style gives a pretty line to your back.

The strap hardware can also impact how a bra strap will fit. Many bra straps have metal or plastic rings on each strap to aid in the length adjusting of your bra straps. When this ring is sewn directly on to either the top of the cup or the bra back, it will allow the strap to swivel to the right or left so that it falls in a more comfortable location for the wearer. If you have sloping shoulders or are prone to having your straps fall off, avoid bras with rings placed in either of these locations. Speaking of strap hardware. We often are asked why strap adjusting hardware is almost always in the back rather than the front. After all, if it’s in the front, it would be so much easier to adjust one’s straps correctly. Well, there are several reasons why manufacturers have determined that strap adjusting should be relegated to the back. First, there is the opportunity to have lace or some design detail on the front of the straps to make the bra look more beautiful. This would not be possible if the adjusting was done in the front. Second, depending on your height, the adjusting hardware could end up on the top of your shoulder which could be very uncomfortable. Third, the adjusting hardware can show though form-fitting clothes if in the front. So, for all these reasons, almost all bra straps adjust in the back.

As for how the straps attach to the front of the bra, there are two things to look for. For the best support, the straps should attach directly above the apex or point of each breast. We call this a "center pull" strap. Balconnette and demi-cup bras have the straps attached closer to the shoulder. There are two reasons: first, wider straps will accommodate a wider neckline, and second, straps attached on the outside of the bra cup create more cleavage by spilling the breast tissue towards the center. If you are prone to having straps fall off your shoulders, you should not select bras with wide-set front straps.